Finding a Rancher, Who and Where?

Use the regional producer directories on the following websites:

     Southwest Grassfed Livestock Alliance (SWGLA) www.swgla.org  505-231-3467
     Eatwild – Jo Robinson’s (author of Pasture Perfect) website www.eatwild.com

Visit or call your local Farmers’ Market.  Ask your friends, co-workers and neighbors if they can recommend a rancher.  Contact The Quivira Coalition at 505-820-2544.

Preparing to make contact:  What, How, When?

What:
Ranchers raise and process their cattle uniquely.  You may hear a rancher describe his or her beef as having one or more of the following “labels”.
•    Grassfed— means the animal was raised on its mother’s milk and at least 80% grass or forage.  In New Mexico, most cattle graze on rangeland grass (rarely on irrigated pasture due to New Mexico’s arid conditions) and are supplemented with hay when necessary.  The other 20% of feed could be grain-based.
•    Grass-finished—beef cattle typically spend their growing years on the range until they reach a certain size. “Grass-finished” means the “fattening up” period is accomplished with grass, not grain.
•    Natural—usually means the animal was not treated with antibiotics or growth hormones and grazed on rangeland or pasture during a large portion of the animal’s life.
•    Organic—must meet USDA organic standards related to certified organic feed, clinical use of antibiotics only, no growth hormones, and access to range or pasture during a large portion of the animal’s life.

What will it look like?

    Ranchers sell their beef in a variety of ways ranging from a whole, a half (side), or quarter of beef, as well as, in 20 lbs. or more variety-packs or individual cuts available at Farmers’ Markets. All beef will come cut to the specifications of the rancher or customer into combinations of steaks, roasts, ribs, brisket, lean ground beef, soup bones and nutrient-dense organs (if you like).  Cuts are usually double-wrapped with plastic and freezer paper or vacuum-sealed in plastic and labeled. You will get your best deal by arranging to pick up a whole beef and learning how to cook the various delicious cuts.  You might also consider partnering with another person to “split” your whole beef if it is too large for your freezer or meat needs.  Ask your rancher how much freezer space you will need to prepare.

What does State Inspected or USDA inspected mean?

The USDA sees that all State Inspection programs are comparable to Federal guidelines for safety and handling requirements.  Inspection is mandatory for processed beef if you are buying beef by the package.  In New Mexico, you are likely to have your beef processed at a state inspected facility rather than at a USDA facility simply because there are more State facilities and they are spread throughout NM.  But if your beef is certified “Organic”, your meat will need to be processed at a USDA facility with “Certified Organic” capabilities, which is regionally limited.

What does “grade” mean?

Whereas “inspection” is mandatory, objective and assures “wholesomeness”, “quality grading” is voluntary, subjective and evaluates traits related to marbling (fat within the muscle), age and fat thickness over the back or loin, of meat from feedlot beef.  You may be accustomed to selecting beef according to quality grades: Prime, Choice, Select, Standard, and Utility.  This is an added expense to the rancher, available only at USDA processing facilities and uses criteria that is not normally applicable to grass-fed beef.  Ask your rancher how she or he would describe her or his meat and see if your taste buds say “YES.”

Ask questions if you are unsure what the “label” really means.  Ranchers can teach us all a lot about the successes and challenges of raising grassfed beef in New Mexico’s widely varying landscapes, climate, and regional processing capabilities (i.e., slaughter and cold storage facilities). Find out how your rancher meets these challenges and continues to raise her or his benchmarks toward successful ranching – including the practice of good land stewardship while doing so.

How do I get the beef?  Processed or “On-the-hoof”? Plus aging

•    Processed—your beef comes to you frozen after slaughter, aging, cutting, wrapping and labeling.  Processing approximately as follows:
a)  freight to processor—depends on distance
b)  kill charge—about $25-$50
c)    offal disposal charge—about $15
d)    aging—depends on hang time in cooler (1-3 weeks)
e)    cutting and wrapping—about .50-.70 per pound
f)    labeling & weighing each package—about .15-.70 per package
g)    5.9375% tax (NM) on processing fee

•    On-the-hoof—you can buy an animal weighing from 600 lbs to 1200 lbs at a price per pound across the scales.  This price will vary according to the current market and the animal’s condition or “finish.”  You can purchase your “on-the-hoof” beef by yourself or with friends or family.  Once you pay for the animal, it can be butchered, aged and packaged on the ranch or at a regular processor.  It is advisable to let your rancher know when you will be ready to start the process so he or she can plan for you to come to the ranch to look at the animal or have your rancher pick one for you.  When your beef is ready to be picked up or delivered, your rancher or processor will notify you.
•    Aging—flavor and tenderness of beef is enhanced by dry aging.  This is done in a cool room for 2 to 3 weeks at a temperature of 34-36 degrees. There is some loss of carcass weight (6-10%) during the aging process and also a loss of carcass weight (35-40%) from trimming and boning during processing and packaging.

How much will it cost?

If you average the cost of all your cuts together, you will be paying around $6.00 to $9.00 per pound.  In comparison, feedlot beef costs $3 to $8 per pound at your grocery store.  Grassfed beef from your local rancher may be slightly more expensive, but the benefits for human and animal health, for sustaining ranching families and rural communities, for promoting clean air, water and open space in your region are invaluable.  Buying direct from a grassfed beef rancher will usually save you money rather than buying grassfed products at a grocery store, where hamburger is $4-$6 per pound and steaks can range from $14 to $27 a pound.

How much freezer space will I need?
      
 Freezer space required will vary depending on the cuts ordered.  But, you can     estimate that one cubic foot of freezer space will hold between 22 and 28 pounds of beef.  Talk to your rancher for a more accurate estimate.       

How do I cook grassfed beef?
(from The Grassfed Gourmet Cookbook: Healthy Cooking and Good Living with Pasture-Raised Foods, by Shannon Hayes, Eating Fresh Publications, 2004)

Grassfed beef is significantly lower in fat than meat on your grocery store shelves. Since fat works as an insulator, it changes the way your meat cooks.
•    Turn down the heat. Get a good thermometer. Moisture and fat will exit quickly, which will toughen the protein at higher heats.
•    Learn when to use dry-heat or moist-heat cooking methods.  Dry-heat is appropriate for tender cuts, such as loin cuts.  Moist-heat is for tougher cuts, such as the shoulder.
•    Lighten up on seasonings and sauces. Prime cuts of aged grassfed beef have sufficient flavor to stand alone compared to grocery store beef.  Use simple herb rubs or salt and pepper to experience the true flavor of the beef.  Then move into more elaborate seasonings.
•    Ask your rancher for recipes. This is a favorite topic, so pull up a chair.

When do I place my order?
When will I receive my order?

•    Place your order as soon as possible after considering your freezer capacity.  Some ranchers maintain an inventory and some ranchers need your order in advance, up to a season or year in advance.  Be prepared to pay a deposit on the beef ordered.
•    Most beef is harvested and available around fall, but some ranchers are experimenting with raising cattle to size and age for availability during the other seasons.
•    If you want to buy by individual cuts, visit your local Farmers’ Market, contact SWGLA to find your rancher or ask if your rancher ships overnight express.


Get to know your rancher!  Building relationships is what sharing good food is all about.  Learn the philosophy behind your rancher’s land and animal management practices and become a “participant” in your community’s food system.